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Author: Ellen Kovach

Ellen Kovach handles doughs, batters, sugar work, and custards. She trained as a pastry cook and now spends most of her time explaining why a recipe fails rather than publishing another version of it. Her pie crust notes have been revised eight times and counting.
Which leftover Halloween candy melts and which one seizes
Seasonal Recipes

Which leftover Halloween candy melts and which one seizes

Baking with leftover Halloween candy: why chocolate seizes, caramel melts into sauce, hard candy shatters, and what actually works in a batter.

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12 min read
Gelatin melts in your mouth, agar does not
Cooking Techniques

Gelatin melts in your mouth, agar does not

Gelatin vs agar vs pectin compared by melt point, bloom strength, and acid tolerance, with the conversion ratios for swapping one into another recipe.

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13 min read
Wet caramel seizes, dry caramel scorches, and both can be rescued
desserts

Wet caramel seizes, dry caramel scorches, and both can be rescued

Wet vs dry caramel compared: sugar stages by temperature, why one crystallizes and the other burns, the insurance for each, and the two rescues that work.

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12 min read
Keep the pan under 180F or the eggs turn rubbery
breakfast

Keep the pan under 180F or the eggs turn rubbery

How to make soft scrambled eggs: the temperatures where egg proteins set, what low heat means on a real burner, and the off-heat finish that decides texture.

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12 min read
Fresh pumpkin puree carries too much water for a pie
Seasonal Recipes

Fresh pumpkin puree carries too much water for a pie

Homemade pumpkin puree holds too much water for a custard pie. The roast, the overnight drain, the target weight, and how to adjust a canned recipe for it.

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12 min read
Butter for flavor, shortening for flake, or both in one dough
Cooking Techniques

Butter for flavor, shortening for flake, or both in one dough

Butter vs shortening pie crust, three doughs from one recipe: melting point, water content, flake against tenderness, and the substitution table by weight.

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12 min read
Some apples hold their shape at 375F, others collapse into sauce
Seasonal Recipes

Some apples hold their shape at 375F, others collapse into sauce

The best apples for baking, ranked by what survived 375F across nine varieties, plus the acid and calcium steps that firm up the ones that collapse.

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13 min read
The pie shell slumped because the gluten never rested
desserts

The pie shell slumped because the gluten never rested

Why a pie shell shrinks, and how to blind bake pie crust so the walls hold: two rests, cold fat, two pounds of weights, and the freezer step that works.

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14 min read

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