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Author: Ellen Kovach

Ellen Kovach handles doughs, batters, sugar work, and custards. She trained as a pastry cook and now spends most of her time explaining why a recipe fails rather than publishing another version of it. Her pie crust notes have been revised eight times and counting.
Fresh pumpkin puree carries too much water for a pie
Seasonal Recipes

Fresh pumpkin puree carries too much water for a pie

Homemade pumpkin puree holds too much water for a custard pie. The roast, the overnight drain, the target weight, and how to adjust a canned recipe for it.

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12 min read
Butter for flavor, shortening for flake, or both in one dough
Cooking Techniques

Butter for flavor, shortening for flake, or both in one dough

Butter vs shortening pie crust, three doughs from one recipe: melting point, water content, flake against tenderness, and the substitution table by weight.

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12 min read
Some apples hold their shape at 375F, others collapse into sauce
Seasonal Recipes

Some apples hold their shape at 375F, others collapse into sauce

The best apples for baking, ranked by what survived 375F across nine varieties, plus the acid and calcium steps that firm up the ones that collapse.

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13 min read
The pie shell slumped because the gluten never rested
desserts

The pie shell slumped because the gluten never rested

Why a pie shell shrinks, and how to blind bake pie crust so the walls hold: two rests, cold fat, two pounds of weights, and the freezer step that works.

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14 min read

Recent Posts

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  • How many degrees does a roast gain after it leaves the oven?

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